I have a huge problem with cultural appropriation of any kind and that includes food– that is my truth.
I cringe every time I see the words “Mexican food” tied to a restaurant led or owned by someone who is not of Mexican descent.
The current state of the country screams “it hates Mexican people” but it doesn’t stop the country from enjoying both the taste or the financial benefits of a Taco Tuesday.
“It’s the best Mexican food ever,” is the most annoying thing anyone could ever tell me. Especially when comparing Mexican cuisine to Chipotle to. Like I said— I cringe.
I was skeptical about eating at Diablo’s Cantina inside the Luxor Hotel and Casino because of this very reason.
What was I going to say if I absolutely hated it? I’ll tell you what I wasn’t going to do– lie. I wasn’t expecting the following, though. Keep reading.
I wasn’t expecting to see “Aguachile Shrimp Ceviche” on the menu. “Aguachile” is as authentic as you can get to Mexican cuisine. “Aguachile, really?!” I was yelling inside my head. I always say that the testimony to authentic tasting food is when a bite regurgitates a childhood memory from the subconscious.
After my bite, I instantly thought of my dad and his aguachile, but also how surprised and proud he’d be to just see this dish make it to a menu on the Las Vegas Strip, and at such an iconic hotel like the Luxor.
Usually, a dish like Diablo’s Cantina “Aguachile Shrimp Ceviche” is only seen on menus in neighborhoods like North Las Vegas and even then this dish is hard to find there.
Aguachile if you’re not familiar, is a shrimp submerged in lime juice, salt, cilantro, slices of cucumber and onions. Cucumbers are usually added. This dish is seasoned with chili peppers and topped on a crunch tostada. The ideal spring and summer dish with your choice of cerveza.
This is just one dish of the many dishes I sampled the left me floored. Take the tamales, for example. No one makes tamales better than their abuelitas. NO ONE. I tend to refuse to eat any not made by my grandmother, or Matere, as I call her, after many failed attempts. But, Diablo’s Cantina has it locked.
They even serve “Queso Fundido” the savory, buttery, oven-baked cheese that you make tacos out of with flour or corn tortilla.
I also appreciated that Diablo’s went the extra mile to use Oaxaca cheese out of the three that they use for their “Queso Fundido” which include Gouda and Manchego. Oaxaca, Mexico is a city known for its palatable cuisine, which have endlessly given and shaped the careers of household named chefs like Rick Bayless.
I was impressed to see “Raja Potatoes” served as a side dish to their “Carne Asada Steak” dish. Rajas are roasted poblano strips drenched in a creamy sauce. They are sometimes used as stuffing in tamales made by, you guessed it, my Matere.
Diablo’s Cantina added potatoes to their rajas and it’s genius. This side dish as a standalone in the menu would sell well accompanied with homemade tortillas as an appetizer. Homemade tortillas will elevate Diablo’s Cantina to another level. I know one lady who’d be happy to help with this request.
Executive Chef Saul Ortiz of Diablo’s Cantina inside Luxor (now an MGM Resorts International property) proves that diversity and representation in leading positions of the kitchen matter. It is not enough to have people of color working the kitchen or busing tables.
It’s vital now more than ever to recognize them, their voice, their perspective and opinion, their talent, acknowledge their contributions to the culinary world, and to support their growth towards leading in the kitchen rather than assisting it.
He represents more than cooking and serving traditional and authentic food a la Mexicana. Chef Saul is a testament to the type of excellence that be achieved when we give people the power to take over their own narratives.
Because of this, Diablo’s Cantina is single-handedly exposing and expanding the palette of their diners through their version of a tour of Mexico’s most delectable and hard-to-find dishes. This new era of Diablo’s Cantina is exciting to see unfold. I’m curious to see what Chef Saul will introduce next.
